CHROME GuidedSMILE: C2F CHROME Prosthetic Conversion

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This video will show the process of converting a CHROME prosthetic on a C2F model. And what we have, the materials that we have are red rider for cutting metal discs, block out rods for blocking out the holes that we make on the prosthetic stellar material for pickup, regular stellar tip. Here we use a micro tip for finishing on around the holes, regular 0.48 driver, and then an external hex driver for the C2F heads. And then over here we have copings that are cut down with our gold screws, right? Because you always use gold screws with C2F analogs and then a bur kit. So those are our tools. All right? The first step, we’ve already made the model from the rapid appliance. So we took the rapid appliance, we put the analogs on the rapid, the MUA analogs and heads, and then we just luted them to the model.

All right? So that’s how we made the model. And then we unscrewed the rapid and took it off. And here’s where we are. This stage. So you’ll see lots of videos on our website and so forth that show us how to make this model. So I won’t go through that process. So now what we’re going to do is remove the C2F heads and we’re going to drill holes through the prosthetic. And the way to remove them is with our external hex driver that comes in the C2F kit. So keep those together, take one out, and then you can see now it’s hollow. Alright, so let’s take the rest out. Okay, heads are out. And the next step is to seat the prosthetic on the model and make sure that it’s totally down. You can see it’s down on this side. And then on this side, it’s a little bit up right there. You see the gap? All right, so you have two options here. One is to ream this out a little bit or to adjust the length of this. The height, it’s probably bottoming out. Now these two really should go together when it gets to the doctor’s office, but this has a little bit of, a little bit high. I think there’s some gun. I’m going to adjust it and then move forward.

Okay, so I adjusted this. Okay, so now it’s totally down. Now the next step is to drill the holes through the prosthetic. Now, when you drill, it’s good to make sure that your drill is going to go actually go through the prosthetic. You see there’s a chance that could actually stop prior to exiting. So I’m going to make the drill a little bit longer. That should work. Now you always want to make sure that it’s passively going in the hole, right? Very important. I want to be loose because you don’t want to create any heat. The drill and the analog touching together, spinning will create a lot of heat, actually could burn your finger. So let’s just get it going here, just like that. Let’s do another one. Nice and passive. Don’t drill through your finger. Two drill. One more. Let’s drill it this way so we can see it coming through. Very nice. Something that’s really important is that when you are drilling that you do not left, let this lift up. If this lifts up, then your screw channel is going in the wrong direction, It’ll end up being in the wrong direction, and you can have that. So you must hold it firmly down while you’re drilling.

Okay? All the holes are drilled. All right, nice small holes. Very good. Now the next step will be to get the temp copings two seat. Inside of these, inside of the wells passively, you can see that the accuracy of the surgery, all these holes are right in the middle of the wells. Really good job. Now, let’s put the MUA heads back in. I just drop ’em all in. And then use your external hacks to tighten them down. One trick with this is keep it vertical. If it goes like this, it falls off. So just keep it vertical while you’re screwing it down. Otherwise, you’ll drop it 10 times while you’re putting these in. All right, there’s one. Put the rest in all in. And then the important thing is to watch to make sure that they are completely down. So that’s down. That one’s down, that one’s up. See that gap. If there’s a gap, that means that temp hoping is going to be high, and it is not going to seed on that implant correctly. So I’ll tighten that one down. That one’s down. That one’s a little buried. A little too much material around here. Really could clear this off. And make sure, actually, you can see the bottom and it’s down. And that one is, That one’s down. So make sure they’re a hundred percent totally down or there. There will not be passive in the mouth. I’m going to clear this material out because we cannot have, all right, so I’m just going to expose the top of this. This is just a matter of letting the material, letting too much material lute in. All right, so now I can just make sure that they’re completely down.

Okay. Next step is to put a temp coping on, and then seat the prosthetic to make sure that it’s passive on that coping. You can see there’s a little gap right here. That means this is a little bit too tall. So if it’s just a little bit like that, all you have to do is go inside the prosthetic. Well, this burs too big. Let’s get a smaller bur, something more like this, like a fluted bur. And we’re just going to simply ream this out a little bit. See if that seats down. Yep, that’s, it’s a little bit closer. I’m going to ream a little bit more. Now, you don’t want to go too deep, right? Cause you don’t want to violate, you don’t want to make this hole any bigger. So if you have to go too deep than what you’ll do. Instead, it’s just adjust a top. And if this needs to be cut down quite a bit, just take a red rider. Now, just take a red rider and disc off maybe one level, maybe a millimeter, whatever you need, or cut it off however much you need. Disc it off real quick, and then it’ll drop right in. That’s a real quick way to do it. All right, so, and then you move on to the next one.

Okay? And of course, you know, don’t want to ream this out too much, right? I mean, you don’t want to ream it out too much, especially above the length of this, because you don’t want a big void up in there above this that the screw could turn sideways. So you want to just adjust it just enough so that it seats, and then move to the next one. All right? Here’s number two, and let’s see how number two fits. Number two, it’s got a little bit of a rock to it. So I’ll adjust this one just a little bit inside here. And then I’ll keep doing that all the way around to every site. And then we’ll do the luting. Okay, you got ’em all down. Prosthetic is seated on all the rest and the copings, were all cut down. And the next thing will be to block out, to block out the holes with the rods and inject and pick up, okay, the rod’s coming, the kit, and we’ll just push ’em down in each site all the way down to the metal. You want to be a little careful of these. They can flake off some of that, that pink that’s been added on like that.

Got to be careful with it. Not good. And I got to repair that. Yeah, there we go. Okay. All right. The rods are in, and then what we’ll do is we’ll invert it, invert it, and then we’ll backfill with stellar. For the luting, what we do is we do it upside down, teeth down, so that way when the material goes in the injection port, actually we got to make some injection ports. Then the gravity will keep it down into the lower part of the well, as opposed to just the intaglio part. You want to get it down the apical part of the, well, but let me drill these holes first. All right. So just in case these holes that the injection ports are not included in the case for some reason, you just take the drill that we’ve been using, and you make a port just like that. And so you can use this, or you can even use a little BB bur, but they’re almost the same size. I usually use the verb, but the drill will work since that’s a tool that everybody has on hand.

Okay? We’re ready to inject. And I always use this, just a regular towel, paper towel, to keep the block-out rods from poking through the glove, and it’s less uncomfortable. Let’s inject. All right, so what we’re going to do is we’re going to, oh, got to change the tip. All right, new tip. And then we’ll inject, and then we’ll watch that material come up around. You can kind of see it just bubble up there, and we’ll just fill the whole look to the next one, just like that. So the idea here is that gravity will take that material to the bottom of the well where we want it, but the block-out rod will keep it from going down the shaft. Okay, let’s finish injecting. Okay? And when all the ports are injected, just take your finger and just wipe it right across the back. Cause we want as minimal clean up as possible, but we don’t want to have to grind all these down flat. We just want to wipe it free. And then we’ll just do a little bit of polishing. Okay? So now we’ll hold the prosthetic down to the model, make sure it’s nice and tight, nice and tight, and then we’ll hit it with a light. Okay, 20 second light, full cure. Stellar.

Okay, it’s cured, and I took time to do 20 seconds on each one. And then full cure is also 120 seconds, two minutes. So we know that it’s fully cured. What we’ll do now is take out the block-out rods. Okay? And you can see there’s no material that, well, actually, there’s a little bit of material there that violated that port, but that’s a real easy fix. You just put the drill back down right to the top of the coping. That’s real quick. No problem there. So I’m going to unscrew all these and then we’ll flip it over and see how we did with luting. All right, last screw. And then let’s take this off, and let’s hope we picked up all the copings, which we did. All right, it’s all picked up. Let’s have a little closer look here and looks good. There’s a lot of material around each one. This one’s actually probably add a little bit, probably add a little bit here on the mesial, but the rest of ’em need a little more material. And what we’re going to use is this endo tip, because we can get right down inside the holes where you couldn’t do that with a bigger stellar kit. All right, so let’s finish this case.

Now, the idea here is to not have to do any post-processing. You want to do everything with the tip and the material, nothing after or almost nothing after. In other words, we don’t want to have to take a bur to this and polishing and glaze and all that. We just want to, who’s the tip? Put some stellar on it, make sure there’s no sharp edges and deliver. All right. You can see how nicely that tip flows, the material down in there. Okay, good. Because it’s making such a fine narrow stream, it actually will drop down in that hole and fill the void. Okay, looking good. You fill the carrier guide holes just like so. And then we’re done. And then what we’ll do is we’ll hit this with a light, a smooth off some, there’s a little bit of area here. We might have to do a little bit of grinding, a little bit of polishing, but otherwise, we’re going to hit that with a light and pretty much deliver. Let to clean out one of those, sorry, one holes, and then we’re ready to deliver.

All right, so let’s have a look at this up close. Now that it’s cured, it can definitely be cleaned up a little bit, right? But this is good enough to, this is good enough to deliver. I’m going to repair this a little bit here, and I’m going to clean out that gunk in that hole. And as always, I’m going to make sure that these screws can come in and out easily, so that when you deliver, you’re not hung up in the shaft or in the hole. Otherwise, it’s ready to go. It’s a nice, easy conversion.


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